Category Archives: Fuel Economy

Issues that can effect fuel economy

K & N Air Filters = A Dirty “MAF”

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If you have seen any type of auto racing, than you may have seen the K & N air filter stickers on some of the race cars.

K & N air filters work great for high performance motor sports, water craft and off-road vehicles, but they are not good to use on a regular engine. Many engines today use a “MAF” sensor (Mass Air Flow Sensor) to measure incoming air going into the engine. The engine computer uses the data from the MAF sensor to adjust engine timing, fuel injection, and transmission shift points.

K & N air filters may improve engine output only by a small percentage. The way K & N does this, is by using a less restrictive woven mesh. The woven mesh is coated with a light spray of oil. The oil is used to help trap dirt in the mesh. When an engine is running, it is drawing air past the oil coated mesh. Then the oily air flows past the MAF sensor, coating the sensor in a fine oil. The fine oil attracts dirt and contaminates the MAF sensor element, just like the sensor in the video above.

Only OE quality filters should be used with a MAF systems. A quality filter will prevent the sensor from getting all clogged up with dirt. The video shows me cleaning a GM MAF sensor gently with a Q-tip dipped in alcohol. The client thought they needed a tune up. The  car was running poorly and pinging, but the computer had no code and no check engine light on.

Yes, the engine needed service, but the heart of the poor operation was a very dirty MAF sensor due to an oil soaked K & N oil filter.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2014

Ms. Kate

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Ms. Kate asked; why can’t you guarantee the repair will fix my car?

Ms. Kate has an almost broken car. Some failures and repairs will fall into a gray area, and Ms. Kate’s Ford was just that, a gray area repair.

The car would stall out when coming to a stop, but restart. Plus it would sometimes not start when hot. It would start after it cooled down for about 1 hour. The condition is intermittent, and it has never acted up for us in the shop. Plus the car’s computer had no codes.

The client never had time to leave the car for a full day.

Ms. Kate does not trust the car and fears driving it because it could stall at the wrong time.

After testing the car a couple of times, my best guess was it could be one of three things. #1 it could be a faulty crank shaft sensor. #2 it could be a faulty fuel pump. #3 it could be a wire fault related to a poor connection at a wire connector or wire junction. More testing was needed.

The big issue for the client is she is on a tight budget and can only spend what is needed to do the needed repair. I understand this all to well. I have a budget and have to stick to it.

To help the client, I advised her to let me have the car for a couple of days so I could leave my test gear hooked up and drive the car at random times. Ms. Kate did not like being without her car, but it needed to be done.

What I found; it did have a faulty crank shaft sensor and a bad fuel pump. The crank sensor was related to the stalling condition and the fuel pump was related to the random hot no start.

I always like to test the car and confirm the fault area. Guessing about what repairs are needed can lead to wasted money and time.

Some times a best guess is all we have, but it must be a good solid guess, 80% chance or more. Give me some time with your car and we can find the fault part 100% confirmed!

I want all my clients to feel good about the money they spend. I want 100% of your business, and I want you to be happy that you used Tony’s Service Center for your repair needs. Ms. Kate is happy because we fixed the cars issues. It did take three days to get it to act up, but only 4 hours to make the repairs once we knew what was broken.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

For Sale

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Yep! It’s For Sale.   ****One owner, driven only on Sunday’s!****

So you are looking for a new car. Maybe not brand new, but new to you. Surfing the web to find a car, can be frustrating.

You may find one you like, but when you go see it in person things change.

I recommend to every client, if you are going to buy a used car. Bring it into the shop for us to check it out. A full car inspection is a small drop in the bucket and it can keep you from getting into a money pit.

Some cars are not worth it, they will suck the money from your budget, and leave you disappointed. The car you choose needs to fit into your budget not eat it alive.

50 to 60% of the cars and trucks that visit the shop for a pre-purchase inspection are only in fair condition. Not worth your time or money

The seller is getting rid of a problem child.

I find a diamond in the rough from time to time, but for the most part many cars I inspect are worn out.

Buying the right car takes a little time. I find that many clients will look at more than 10 cars before they find a keeper.

Cars and trucks from an auction house can be a high risk, so beware that repairs could cost you big if you get a lemon.

So here are 5 basic steps to help you look for your new car.

Step 1: Go look at cars during the day.

Cars on the car lot will look real nice under the bright lights, but you will miss many details at night. During the day it is easy to see all the flaws. Paint color issues and poorly done body repairs are the big defects that hide at night.

Take a flashlight. You need to look behind and under the seats, in the trunk and under the dash. You are looking for anything that looks broken or in need of repair.

Step 2: Buy 2 to 4 years old, let the first owner take the hit.

When you buy a gently used 2 to 4-year-old car, the first owner will take the hit on the deprecation of the car. Almost all cars and trucks take a huge dip in value in the first 5 years. It is best to buy a car no older than 8 years. This way you will still have service parts available to keep your car looking and running good.

Auto manufactures start to drop cosmetic parts at 8 years of age. Cosmetic parts keep your car looking good. If it is in an accident it will need cosmetic parts to put it back together. So It is best to get something newer vs real old.

Mechanical parts will still be available for many years and you may have to go to a regular auto parts source (NAPA) for some things as the car ages past 15 years. Personally I drive a 1993 Toyota Tercel and my Toyota is 20 years old, but Toyota still services almost 80% of the parts for this car.

As long as you love your car and we can get quality parts for it, we can keep your car running great.

Gear head alert: If you have mechanical skills, the year of the car will never matter, but I will still recommend you to have an independent shop inspect the car, because it will be an objective opinion. If I save you money and keep you from buying a money pit, it will be worth every penny for the inspection.

Step 3: Drive the car in the city and on the freeway.

Before you bring the car in for an inspection. You can rule out some things on your own. When you drive the car, does it drive straight down the road? On flat ground, under safe conditions, lightly grip the steering wheel while driving. If the car wants to turn or pull to one side, it could indicate repairs needed. Tires can also cause a pull, but so can worn suspension parts or poor quality accident repairs.

Do the same pull check when using the brakes, does it pull or shake? Take time to listen to the car not the radio. Is the car overly noisy when driving on a smooth road? Does it vibrate at an idle when it is in gear? Does it shake at high speeds above the speed limit…

Does the car smell musty or like an old gym bag when you first get in. This is mostly noticed when you live in a hot climate area like Phoenix, AZ.

Do all the electric devices work? Does the A/C and heat work correctly. This one is a must have in Phoenix, AZ

Just check everything you can, switch everything on and off plus open and close all windows and the sun roof if it has one. If it will pass basic tests you are ready for the next part of the inspection.

Then bring the car into the shop for a full inspection. We will check the engine, fuel and Ignition systems, scan the computer, emissions equipment, transmission and under chassis. We will look for hidden body repairs that may have not been reported to Carfax. If we find issues we can give you retail prices on the needed repairs. This repair list will give you power to wheel and deal with the seller or just pass on the car.

Step 4: Stay away from cars that have “Go Fast” modifications.

Modifications do not add to the retail value or private re-sale value of the car, unless done correctly. Too many times I see cars that are just hacked up, but they look good on the outside. You can break this rule if you want to, but let me tell you why this step is important.

Let’s say you buy a Ford Mustang with a smaller V8 or V6, but later will want to add performance parts to it to make it Go Fast. You just killed the re-sale value of the car and wasted your money for a small gain.

It would be better for you to just buy the Mustang GT. The GT will hold its value because it is not hacked up, plus it is a Go Fast car to start with. Buy right, buy once.

When performance parts go bad, finding replacement parts when traveling can cause issues. A near stock car can be serviced at almost any repair location. Modifications will cost extra to maintain, and may add extra repair labor when servicing your car.

Every change you make to the car has a price. The costs go way past the original installation the parts.

Step 5: The most important step is…

*** “Do not buy any car or truck without getting it inspected!” ***

Ok, this should be a no brainer, but it’s not. I have looked at many cars that clients have already signed the papers on and they own the car.

I act on the clients behalf to protect the client from the seller. Think of it as being your second set of eyes. About 99% of all used cars older than 5 years do not come with a warranty. Yes, you can spend extra money on a 3rd party warranty, but if you buy a good car, you will not need to worry about a warranty because you did your home work. So do not sign anything till you have had it checked out at an independent shop. Even if the car is from a friend!

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

 

Man Made

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A Man Made failure can be very hard to find. I get two or three a year that make me pull my hair out. Most of the time I know something is rotten, because it looks like some one has man handled the area in question.

A man-made failure is still a failure, but a man-made failure will cause many more issues during the diagnosis.

Someone caused the failure, it did not happen on its own.

What did they do or not do right…

Man made failures are not a normal condition related to age or heat. A man-made failure is caused by an owner doing DIY repairs or a junior mechanic working on the car the wrong way.

The part pictured above is from a Nissan. The Nissan was at a car wash for an engine detail and two days later it would not run correctly and set a lean code (P0171). Yes, the check engine light came on.

Issues after an engine detail are very common.

I have many car owners that have skills, and they bring the car to me when the job is outside what they can do. I am Ok with that. Doing your own repairs is fine, just do not bring it to me in a basket and expect it to be cheep to put back together.

The image above and just below are from a 6.0 V8 Chevy engine. The two Chevrolet knock sensors, live in a well under the intake manifold. The ash look on the sensors is due to an engine detail. The hot water under high pressure went into the well area and worked its way into the sensor. Boo Hoo, it set a code and it was only four days after the engine detail.

If your car is 8 years old or older, I would not recommend to do any high pressure washing around the engine and engine harness. The damage high pressure water will do, can cost you more trouble than its worth. I wash my engine bays with hot low pressure soap & water. Then I blow dry everything before re-starting the engine.

Car owners can cause more issues than a junior tech, because they just do not know any better. The next image below is just that case. The owner installed a fancy gauge kit on his Toyota Supra and then odd things started to happen about a month later.

Clients lie, yes I said it, they lie. It is just like a little kid getting in trouble, they did something that caused a problem, and now they need a bail out, but they do not want to admit they did it.

The normal story I hear often is a friend installed it for me or I had a shop install it and now it does not work.

With more Q&A you find out that they never had a friend or shop install it. Go figure.

I have worked with many junior technicians and every one of them had questions. I like it when they ask before they jump right into the fire. The image above is from a man-made failure that an 8 year tech made.

I worked with him for 4 months and never questioned his work. One day I had a Toyota Camry pop in that had an odd issue. It was running rich and had an odd flutter upon acceleration. I had never seen anything like this before.

After 2 hours of tests I had my answer. I did not like what I found. The cam shaft gear was touching the signal wire to the #1 injector. It was causing extra injection pulses, causing the rich fuel mixture and engine flutter.

The tech had just replaced the valve cover gasket the week before.

When I showed the tech the findings, he had a I don’t care response. When I asked him why he felt this way, he said, look at the car, it’s a P.O.S.

The tech quit that Friday.

It does not matter how old a car is or the condition the car is in. Every repair needs to have the same quality. Service above self. Doing your best every time not just some of the time.

P.O.S. defined:  pile of shit

 

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

 

P0171 & P0173

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Engine codes P0171 and P0173, a lean fuel system condition, the engine may miss fire or feel lazy. Modern cars and trucks have many sensors that send information to the engine computer. The engine computer looks at the information coming in from all the input sensors and then it makes changes to the, transmission operation, ignition timing and fuel injector delivery. The computer does this very fast, so fast most drivers will never feel the changes taking place.

The computer adjusts many outputs at the same time, every second.

The PCV hose pictured above, is for a 2009 Ford truck. The old hose went bad and caused two codes in the engine computer. P0171 and P0173 are codes for a lean condition inside the engine. The hose below failed, causing the codes to set in the engine computer.

When the C.E.L. (check engine light) comes on, it makes you wonder, is it critical or a minor issue. Plus now you have something new to fit into your budget, Great!

As long as your check engine light is not flashing at you, you can still drive your car, but should get it in for service as soon as possible. The light is on for a reason.

A lean condition can cause many issues. Fuel economy will become poor and the engine may even stall when coming to a stop. It will run rough when cold and lack power when warm. It needs attention, your ride is unhappy, and it’s time to make a repair.

Hose failure is the most common cause of a lean fuel system. Many parts on the engine can cause a lean code issue, so you should have a ASE certified shop look at your engine light issue. Free code checks at the auto parts store will not be 100%.

I use dealer parts often. In this case, the PCV hose has been updated. When ever I have a chance to make a repair that will solve more than one issue I do it. The hose was updated to prevent PCV carbon build up and the rubber hose joints are made thicker. The part was less than $30.00. An investment vs just using a regular chunk of hose, but it will last. At Tony’s service center every repair we do comes with a 2 year 24,000 mile warranty.

Stop in for a visit today.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

 

L.O.F.

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An L.O.F. is: the primary service your car needs every 3,000 to 5,000 miles.

Every car and truck needs service. Some people call it an oil change, in our shop we call it a L.O.F.

L.O.F. – Short for; Lube, Oil and Filter. Today I had a new client in for an oil change and everything went fine till it was time to talk about what the car needed. What it needed in addition to an oil change.

Yes, the car needed much more than just an oil change.

The client just could not come to grips with what we found. A leaky cooling system hose, a worn set of wiper blades, two brake light bulbs burnt out, an accessory drive belt with chunks of rubber missing. In all, the car needed many repairs.

The client said, his car can not be in that bad of shape, and we are just trying to rip him off.

During an oil change, it is my job as a service technician to inspect the car top to bottom and front to rear. I list and estimate anything I find that is worn out or a safety issue.

I am not checking everything out to rip someone off. I check everything out to keep my clients informed about needed repairs and safety concerns. No one likes to break down at the side of the road.

I help clients plan for repairs they need. Even if your car needs many repairs, nothing says you have to do the repairs on the same visit, unless it’s a safety repair.

If the car owner wants to wait till things are 100% broken, I understand. I can only recommend a repair to a client, I can’t force them to repair it.

 

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

 

Going to the dealer for repairs. Auto Repair 85016

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I have some clients that say this: I do not want to go to the dealer. 

Why?

The dealer has all the cool tools, great parts and factory trained mechanics. So why not go to the dealer. They know everything about the car you drive. It must be a great place.

I have worked in three dealerships. Everyone of them was challenging. Shop politics, back stabbing, steeling work from each other, breaking things to flag warranty time, high mechanic turn over and the list goes on. In short, it sucked.

Because I have morals, I never did very well at the dealership level. I did not play along with the shop games, politics and shady ways to flag time.

I did have an advantage, I could work on anything that rolled. I always had work when everyone else was standing around. In the long run I still made my pay check, but I did it the hard way, I worked for it.

I like working at a family owned repair shop.

Clients like the family owned repair shops because they get better overall service. A family shop is a great place to go for all your repair and maintenance needs. A family repair shop works on anything that rolls. Any year and model, we do not mind. A family owned shop can do everything the dealer can do. A family repair shop offers you a personal touch.

A family shop will always be a better place than the dealer, because we care about you.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Water pump replacement – Auto Repair 85016

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When is a good time to replace your water pump?

I have at least 2 cars a month that need a water pump replaced ASAP. If a water pump is leaking, you risk over heating your engine. An overheating condition can destroy an engine in less than couple of minuets.

If the engine over heats from coolant loss, repair costs can get ugly fast.

leaking water pump

This leaking Nissan water pump was changed before engine damage could happen, the leaky pump was noticed during the oil change service. Regular service visits can prevent bigger failures.

The best time to replace a leaking water pump is before engine damage occurs.

This is a no brainer. At least we would think that is the case.

On the web, you can find many auto forums that say, do not get ripped off by replacing parts before they break. Yes and No. Most forums are 50% helpful. Populated by wannabe mechanics or shade tree D.I.Y. guys and you can get advise that will cost you more in the long run.

So are you getting ripped off if you can prevent a bigger failure?

water pump failure causes timing belt and related engine damage audi a6

This mess is from an Audi A6. The water pump failed and caused the engine to over heat. The repairs totaled $6,400.00 because a $86.00 water pump failed at 39,000 miles.

Sometimes it is Ok to replace a part before it is 100% broken.

Would you fly in an airplane, if you knew the ground crew waited till an engine part was 100% broken before they replaced it?  > No! <

If I knew the airplane could break down when it was at 30,000 feet, I would never want to fly at all.

Preventative maintenance is just what it implies. Fix it before it fails.

I have a BMW client that comes in every 45,000 miles to replace the water pump, upper radiator hose, thermostat and coolant. This is because the water pump life span is about 50,000 miles and the client does not want to have any breakdowns. The above repair is only $590.00, but an engine replacement is around $9,000.00. The client understands the value and loves his car.

Volvo s80 water pump impeller failure

Water pumps do not have to leak to cause engine damage. This Volvo S80 water pump has a broken impeller. Repairs for this condition can range from $550.00 to $6000.00. It all depends on how hot the engine gets.

Yes, I know cars do not fly, but many states have safety inspections to keep cars in a safe working order. Brakes, tires, lights, steering, suspension and drive train parts must be in good working condition. If the car needs repairs, you do not drive the car till it pass’ inspection.

I do not like to wait till my car is broken down on the side of the road to take action. Maintenance is required to keep everything ship-shape and ready for the road.

leaky water pump removed from engine

This water pump caused over heating damage and the engine needed replacement because the over heating melted the pistons to the cylinder walls. The car was only 2 years old with 47,000 miles on the clock.

I like to see our clients in at least twice a year for service, but they can stop in anytime to get free air in the tires. Our clients know they are welcome to stop in anytime for a quick under hood check. A quick look costs nothing, but could save you big.

You do not have to wait till the next oil change to pop the hood.

 

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

 

My tires are worn out? Why are they worn out?

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I just replaced my tires last month. Well, sort of.

The client in question, did replace the tires on this month, but it was 3 years ago this month. Time just zips by, and I have this happen to many clients, they lose track of when they last visited the shop. That is why we mail out reminders to clients, so they come in for service regularly.

I see 4 to 5 cars a week that need tires. So why do drivers wait till the tire fails? Why wait till you are on the side of the road.

I blame it on an old school idea, the myth is that Abraham Lincoln’s head is a good judge of tread depth. In the last couple years I have seen many automotive articles on tire wear and when it’s time to replace the worn out rubber.

Penny vs Quarter for checking tire depth
Penny @ 2/32″ of an inch vs a Quarter @ 4/32″ of an inch.

When you use a penny to judge the tread depth, you are waiting too long to replace your tires. Waiting till your tires are at 2/32″ of an inch to replace them puts you at risk of hydroplaning in wet conditions.

Hydroplaning; “Verb”  To slide uncontrollably on the wet surface of a road : a motorist whose car hydroplaned and crashed into a tree.

Many tires may still have tread in the center, but may be worn at the edge, or worse. Your tires could be age cracked, or have cuts on the side wall from hitting curbs.   You must look at the condition of the entire tire, not just the thread thickness.

I know, I live in Arizona. It never rains in Arizona, right? Well the fact is, yes, it does rain in Arizona just not very often. But when it does rain, all the oil in the road rises to the top of the wet surface. That makes the road very slick. Any tire at 2/32″ of an inch will slip, slide and lose traction very easy in that type of wet condition.

So I like to use a Quarter, I keep one in my pocket to show clients how important thickness is when the road is wet. A Quarter will give you 4/32″ or 1/8 th of an inch of tread thickness. I use 4/32″ of an inch as a guideline for tire wear. Many tests have shown that tires worn to 4/32″ of an inch will still grip the wet road and bring your car to a safe stop.

The video below is showing a tire that is worn too much, it needs replacement now. If you look at the center of the tire you can see the tread is still thick enough that it could give the owner the idea the tire is still good. The client did not think the tread was that bad till I showed him up close how cracked and worn the tire was. In fact all 4 tires looked just like the one in the video clip. He only came in to get the fluids checked and the tires aired up because he was going on a trip in the morning.

So as your tire wears down below 4/32″ it will start to lose traction when the road is wet. Tests on tires looking at tire wear vs wet traction showed that at 3/32″ of an inch the wet stopping distances starts to increase by 15 to 50%.

At 2/32″ of an inch almost all the tires tested showed the cars using over double the amount of distance to stop. That is almost 100% more stopping distance needed when the road is wet. Replacing your tires at 4/32″ is a good idea. Think safety first.

By the way the client was very happy we found this before he had a break down. With 4 new tire an oil change and new wiper blades he was ready for his trip.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

DTC P0300 Random Engine Miss Fire Condition

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DTC P0300 is a Random Engine Miss Fire Condition

An engine miss fire feels like a bumping sensation. Most of the time, this is noticed by the driver when accelerating. A miss fire condition may cause the Check Engine Light to turn on or start flashing at you.

Carbon tracking on a spark plug

This is a spark plug with carbon tracking. The dark black lines running left to right in the center of the image is a carbon trail caused by a faulty spark plug wire. This type of condition will cause a single cylinder miss fire.

If an engine miss fire condition is causing poor tail pipe emissions, the check engine light will start to flash on and off.

When you see the check engine light flashing at you, do not continue to drive the car. Get it in for repairs right away. The catalytic converter maybe damaged if you continue to drive the car with the check engine light flashing.

catalytic converter failure core melted

A Catalytic Converter damaged by a miss fire condition. A miss fire condition will melt down a converter very quickly.

A catalytic converter is not chump change. On a Nissan Pathfinder, I just replaced both front catalytic converters on the Nissan and it was related to a miss fire condition. It was over $1,400.00 just for the dealer cats.

Worn spark plugs, causing engine code P0300

This set of worn spark plugs was causing a DTC P0300 on a Ford 4.2 V6. The plugs are 8 years old with 102,000 miles of use. The engine needed more parts than just spark plugs. This set of plugs also shows oil build up, the engine was due for a valve job on top of all the other needs.

If the check engine light is flashing, get it in for repairs!

OBD2 cars today can store a code that will direct the mechanic to look at a specific area.

A good example of this is when you have a DTC P0302 miss fire detected on cylinder #2, you have a place to look (cylinder #2 has a miss fire). You just have to look at things that would affect cylinder #2.

Oil fouled spark plug

Oil fouled spark plug, this plug was causing a single cylinder miss fire. (DTC P0304)

On a DTC P0300, this is a random miss fire condition that could be caused by anything. Anything that changes the air/fuel mixture to all of the cylinders in the engine at the same time.

A dirty MAF sensor can cause this type of change to all the cylinders.

MAF: Mass Air Flow Sensor, is a sensor that takes reading of the incoming air into the engine and sends a signal to the computer. The signal is used to make fuel system, cam timing and ignition timing adjustments.

The driver may not feel the engine miss fire with a DTC P0300, but the driver should see the check engine light turn on. Other things the driver may notice. The engine may feel like it is not responding crisply or the driver may notice that the fuel economy has been poor.

A couple other things that can cause a DTC P0300. Poor engine compression or an engine that is out of time due to a faulty timing belt or timing chain. A large centrally located vacuüm leak or a restricted exhaust system.

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DTC P0300 Defined: Random Cylinder Miss Fire, this condition could be caused by any parts attached to the engine or parts inside the engine. You have to look for any condition that will change the air/fuel mixture, spark or compression to all the cylinders at the same time.

DTC P0301 Defined: Miss Fire on cylinder #1 or any cylinder that the code lists. (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304) The last number in the DTC is pointing to the cylinder that set the code.

 

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013