Tag Archives: dodge

Click, Click, Click

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It’s the sound no one want’s to hear.

Click, click, click, this sound could be caused by a faulty starter, a poor cable connection at the starter or battery, or it could be a worn out battery. It could be related to anything in the starting system.

The most common reason is a faulty battery. (about 75% of the time it is just a faulty battery) In Arizona I see most batteries last about 18 months. (1.5 years) The heat is a big killer of batteries. I test every battery in every car I look at, even if it is in for a small repair.

A battery does not normally fail suddenly, but can. The battery will show weakness many months before full failure. Yes, it may start the engine just fine, but the cells inside the battery may have a reduced capacity.

The best way to test for battery health is to place a fixed load on the battery and watch the voltage drop over a preset time. This places a dynamic load on the cells. This is an old school type of test.

The next best way is to use a capacity tester. This type of test checks the internal cell resistance. If the cells are weak, the tester will show (percentage remaining) or a (replace now) depending on how weak the cells are.

Do not wait till you hear click, click click to take action, stop in today so we can test your battery. We are always happy to see new clients and our regular clients know we take care of everything under the hood. Call us today to schedule an appointment.

At Tony’s Service Center we check your battery at every visit. If it is having any issues, you will know before it fails.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Tune Up – Phoenix 85016

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What is a Tune Up?

By todays standards, a tune up is not like a tune up in the good old days. You may remember back to a time when dad or grandpa worked on the family car in the drive way. With many trips to the auto parts store and two six packs of liquid helper the car would run again.

On a modern O.B.D. 2 car, a tune up it is very different from pre 1999 cars.

O.B.D. 2 started back in 1995, but only on some cars and light trucks. By 1999 every car and light truck on the road had O.B.D. 2 computers running the engine and transmission systems. Many government mandates reshaped how engines and transmission systems are managed. Fuel economy and emissions standards became tighter. So car makers had to make changes.

From 1980 to 1999 many american cars used O.B.D. 1 computers. The O.B.D. 1 computer was slow and prone to odd issues. Each car maker had its own system with its own set of codes and short comings.

As fast as home computers changed, the computers used in cars changed, becoming faster and more capable. Some manufactures used old school ways with new electronics and it made a mess of everything under the hood. So many hoses, wires, valves and sensors it just made your head spin.

Imports had electronic systems back in to the 70’s, but no two makes of car ran the same style of system and they changed every 2 to 3 years. Many import cars used parts that did the same things that O.B.D. 1 parts did, but no one used a uniform standard. It was a big mess until O.B.D. 2.

Back in the old days of points, plugs and wires.

Prior to electronic ignition systems, every engine used a set of points to trigger the ignition system. The points system was a mechanical on off switch for the ignition system. Every 6 months or so the parts would wear out and need replacement or a tune up. On the older cars you did not have a computer to give you a code. You had to find the fault by doing tests on all the parts that ran the engine.

Repairing the older cars required the mechanic to hook up a big engine scope to the engine. Getting good data from the engine during its operation was critical to a fast diagnosis. This was the heart of no code driveability. You had to know how every part worked and how wear effected the way the engine ran or how the transmission would respond. I do not miss the old cars, but I still have some vintage rides stop in for service.

Todays version of a tune up may consist of pulling codes and replacing some broken parts, but for the most part a modern car has nothing to tune up. A computer running a program sets the idle speed and timing to maximise fuel economy and engine performance, its pre-set, nothing to adjust. Service intervals are longer and wearing parts like spark plugs last longer.  The Distributer, distributer cap, rotor, ignition wires and coil has been replaced with an ignition coil on plug ignition systems. Todays engine bay looks simple in comparison to a 80’s car. So what is a tune up? It’s about replacing the worn parts and making the car happy.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Auto Repair 85016 Understanding Labor Hours

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Hours of Labor Defined

A client asked a question about the hours billed on a repair order. Jill is the clients name and Jill’s question is simple. She does not know what the hours of labor indicates in real-time. One hour of time on a clock is 60 minuets, that is easy. Divide 60 minuets by 10.

(60 divided by 10 = 6 minuets or .1 hours of labor)

Labor time on an auto repair invoice is calculated in tenths of an hour (.1 hours = 6 minuets) Some clients never look at the hours of labor, just the total at the bottom.

The time it takes to remove, repair and replace the parts is called a labor operation. Every repair on a vehicle is calculated this way. A labor guide is used to look up the labor for a repair. Every car is different and will have different billable hours for similar tasks. A water pump R/R on a V8 rear wheel drive car is different from a V6 front wheel drive car.

Now let’s look at Jill’s invoice labor. She had an oil change @ .3 hours and a tire rotation @ .2 hours. So the labor for her visit was .5 hours (x) the shop rate = total labor billed.

Now this is how some clients get confused. Jill was at the shop for about an hour but the time on the job was .5 hours not 1.0 or a full hour.

Doing the paper work takes time and some of the time is used just waiting for the oil to drain out. The billed hours, are for the work preformed on the vehicle during the visit at the shop. Billable labor is easier to understand that your phone bill, but if you have questions about labor stop in at the shop anytime during the weekdays.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Chevy Truck Repairs, My engine runs rough.

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1997 Chevrolet truck with a 4.3 engine runs rough.

The owner has maintained the truck very well, but with 300,000+ miles on the clock you would think it would be all worn out, but it’s not. This is why maintenance is critical to the long life of your car or truck. This truck looks and drives great because the owner loves his ride. The rough running condition was not setting any codes.

(This was a No Code, Driveablity Condition) 

It was not related to the ignition system or engine compression. It was caused by a faulty fuel pressure regulator on the fuel injection unit. The only way to spot an issue like this is to know fuel delivery basics.

The failure was not computer related.

Some engine parts go bad slowly over time. The client did not know that anything was wrong. The client only said it felt rough at an idle and to check it out. This little monster below is the fuel injection unit from under the intake manifold. It is hidden from sight. So when it has a leak, you do not smell it or see it, but your fuel economy will drop when it is going bad.

The client may have noticed that the engine was using more fuel, but he does not check the fuel mileage regularly. The easy way to check fuel usage is to zero out your trip meter when you fill up the gas tank. Then at the next fill up, divide the miles traveled by the fuel used to re-fill the tank. Presto, you just found out what your fuel MPG is. Now, do this at every fill up and if you notice your mileage drop over 20% suddenly, you may need repairs or lighter feet.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Are you ready for the “Summer Heat”?

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It’s March & almost summer time. It’s time to get ready for the heat!

Everything inside, outside and under the hood of your car will see extra stress because of the extreme heat in Arizona. If you haven’t noticed it yet, Phoenix is a desert climate, dusty and hot. Every summer I see many cars that are not ready to take on the Arizona heat.

If you live outside Arizona and plan on traveling through Phoenix mid summer, this applies to you too.

The cooling system is a great place to start. Inspecting everything on the engines cooling system is very important. Leaky hoses, water pumps and radiators will let the coolant level drop slowly in the cooling system. Low coolant levels can quickly turn into an over heating condition ruining your engine. Reduced air flow due to bugs, trash or faulty cooling fans can lead to over heating just as easy as low coolant levels. Engine failure can be prevented with a visit to the shop for a full inspection of the cooling system.

You need air-conditioning to keep you cool in your car. let’s check it! Is the output temperature correct, do all the controls work correctly, is your cabin air filter ready to get the job done? Do you have any leaky hoses? Let’s take a look.

Have you thought about reducing the heat to the inside of your car? If you have regular clear glass. Window tint will help cut the heat load to everything inside the car. A high quality tint will reduce the heat inside the car by rejecting the sun’s UV rays.

A summer time inspection can be included with a regular oil change service. Waiting till you are at the side of the road is too late to act. Stop in today.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Buying a new, used car. 5 steps to keep you from buying a lemon.

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It’s time to buy a car, but you can only afford a new, used car.

Many clients I know have a budget to stick to.  I have a budget and need to plan for any big purchase. Buying a new car is a huge step for anyone.  Tags, title, maintenance and insurance, everything just got more expensive.

Not every used car is going to be a good buy right off the lot. I look at about 10 cars every month and less than 50% are worth buying.

I work for my client, not the seller.

I do not wear rose-colored glasses. So I will look past the shiny paint and overly slicked down engine bay to see every fault.

Step 1: Go look at cars during the day.

Cars on the car lot will look real nice under the bright lights, but you will miss many details at night. During the day it is easy to see all the flaws. Paint color issues and poorly done body repairs are the big defects that hide at night.

Step 2: Buy 2 to 4 years old, let the first owner take the hit.

When you buy a gently used 2 to 4-year-old car, the first owner will take the hit on the deprecation of the car. Almost all cars and trucks take a huge dip in value in the first 5 years. It is best to buy a car no older than 8 years. This way you will still have service parts available to keep your car looking and running good.

Auto manufactures start to discontinue cosmetic parts at 8 years of age. Cosmetic parts keep your car looking good. If it is in an accident it will need cosmetic parts to put it back together. So It is best to get something newer vs real old.

Mechanical parts will still be available for many years and you may have to go to a regular auto parts source (NAPA) for some things as the car ages past 15 years. Personally I drive a 1993 Toyota Tercel and my Toyota is 20 years old, but Toyota still services almost 80% of the parts for this car.

As long as you love your car and we can get quality parts for it, we can keep your car running great.

Gear head alert: If you have mechanical skills, the year of the car will never matter, but I will still recommend you to have an independent shop inspect the car, because it will be an objective opinion. If I save you money and keep you from buying a money pit, it will be worth every penny for the inspection.

Step 3: Drive the car in the city and on the freeway.

Before you bring the car in for an inspection. You can rule out some things on your own. When you drive the car, does it drive straight down the road? On flat ground, under safe conditions, lightly grip the steering wheel while driving. If it wants to turn or pull to one side, it could show repairs are needed. Tires can also cause a pull, but so can worn suspension parts or poor quality accident repairs.

Do the same pull check when using the brakes, does it pull or shake? Take time to listen to the car not the radio. Is the car overly noisy when driving on a smooth road? Does it vibrate at an idle when it is in gear? Does it shake at high speeds above the speed limit…

Does the car smell musty or like an old gym bag when you first get in. This is mostly noticed when you live in a hot climate area like Phoenix, AZ.

Do all the electric devices work? Does the A/C and heat work correctly. This one is a must have in Phoenix, AZ

Just check everything you can, switch everything on and off plus open and close all windows and the sun roof if it has one. If it will pass basic tests you are ready for the next part of the inspection.

Then bring the car into the shop for a full inspection. We will check the engine, fuel and Ignition systems, scan the computer, emissions equipment, transmission and under chassis. We will look for hidden body repairs that may have not been reported to Carfax. If we find issues we can give you retail prices on the needed repairs. This repair list will give you power to wheel and deal with the seller or just pass on the car.

Step 4: Stay away from cars that have “Go Fast” modifications.

Modifications do not add to the retail value or private re-sale value of the car, unless done correctly. Too many times I see cars that are just hacked up, but they look good on the outside. You can break this rule if you want to, but let me tell you why this step is important.

Let’s say you buy a Ford Mustang with a smaller V8 or V6, but later will want to add performance parts to it to make it Go Fast. You just killed the re-sale value of the car and wasted your money for a small gain.

It would be better for you to just buy the Mustang GT. The GT will hold its value because it is not hacked up, plus it is a Go Fast car to start with. Buy right, buy once.

When performance parts go bad, finding replacement parts when traveling can cause issues. A near stock car can be serviced at almost any repair location. Modifications will cost extra to maintain, and may add extra repair labor when servicing your car.

Every change you make to the car has a price. The costs go way past the original installation the parts.

Step 5: The most important step is…

*** “Do not buy any car or truck without getting it inspected!” ***

Ok, this should be a no brainer, but it’s not. I have looked at many cars that clients have already signed the papers on and they own the car.

I act on the clients behalf to protect the client from the seller. Think of it as being your second set of eyes. About 99% of all used cars older than 5 years do not come with a warranty. Yes, you can spend extra money on a 3rd party warranty, but if you buy a good car, you will not need to worry about a warranty because you did your home work. So do not sign anything till you have had it checked out at an independent shop. Even if the car is from a friend!

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

 

 

DTC P0440 Evaporative System Leak Detected

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The gas cap pictured above looks bad, the gasket is cracked and you would think it would be leaking, the odd thing is it seals up just fine.

DTC P0440 evaporative system leak detected.  This is one of the OBD 2 codes that every car owner will hear about at least once.  The code is for leakage in the evaporative system.  It does not indicate the gas cap is bad, but a loose or defective gas cap can trigger the code.  A faulty roll over valve on the top of the fuel tank can set the same code.  The code will set in the computer for any number of reasons, that is why we run tests to rule out the unknown.  The first test is the gas cap.  It is a part that can wear out from use, so it is a good place to start.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

It’s going to rain, are your wiper blades ready?

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We check your wiper blades at every service. 

If the wiper blades will not clear the glass, they need replacement.  I see many clients wait till it rains to discuss replacing the wiper blades.  Why wait?  The cost is minimal and most cars only need them replaced once a year.  I advise clients why they need good wiper blades and yes it does not rain every day in Arizona, but again, why wait till it does rain…

 

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Should I fix my old car or buy a new car?

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Wow, that’s a lot of money to fix my car!

In walks Mr. Steve, he is a new client to the shop.  Steve owns an Isuzu Rodeo with 160,000 plus miles on the clock.  Steve’s Rodeo told me it needed help, Steve on the other hand did not want to spend any money on a big repair.

Mr. Steve and the Rodeo should talk more often…

I looked at the issue (a transmission shifting issue) and calculated that it would be close to 800.00 to address the 5 fluid leaks causing the transmission shifting issue.  You see, Steve’s Rodeo was very low on fluid and because the Isuzu rodeo does not have a transmission dip stick tube.  No one has been checking the fluid level.

You check the fluid level on the Isuzu Rodeo from under the car, when it is on the rack for service.  Now, the under body of the Rodeo told me that the leak has been going on for many weeks if not months.  So someone has been over looking the needs of the car just to save time or because they did not put two and two together.

(Leaks cause fluid loss and fluid loss can cause many parts to fail.)

I asked steve if he would like to leave the car to make the repairs because the parts are special order.  At this point, I should mention that Steve does not like my price.  Steve does not want to spend any money on the car.  So I dropped the other shoe, I informed steve about some of the other needs I see on the car. (Things needing to be done today.)  So Steve is not happy with me at all right now.  So Steve tells me he is selling the Rodeo and going to buy a new car soon.  (Ok)

I hear this one all the time…

In all, I talked with Steve about everything that the rodeo needed and I topped off the fluid in the transmission, plus added some coolant to the cooling system.  I wished Steve well and he drove off.  I would like to see Steve back as a regular client, but for now he is a man with a broken car and I can not change that.

Cars and trucks talk to me.  I hear them tell me they need help and I do what I can to guide the client to the best repair for the car.  The moral to this story, maintenance is an ongoing thing and the older the car gets, the more maintenance it will need.  If you ignore it, it will break.  I like to see my clients at least 3 times a year for oil change services.  This lets me talk to the car and then I can let the client know what the car may need.

The main goal is to plan for upcoming repairs and maintenance

vs being surprised by them at the side of the road.

 

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

P0128 Engine Code Dodge Magnum

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Dodge Magnum Check Engine Light on, code P0128

When the check engine light turns on, it indicates that the computer sees a fault.  When the engine computer sees the fault, it will store a code.  The code will direct the repair technician to an area to test.  Today I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum with a P0128 code.  This code is basically the same for any make or model.  This is a standardized code for O.B.D. 2 cars and trucks.  P0128 is for Engine Cooling System Thermostat Rationality.  The engine computer (PCM or ECM) predicts what the engine coolant temperature should be, based on the engine coolant temperature at start-up.  The predicted engine coolant temperature is then compared to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)  The error between the two is calculated and integrated with respect to time.  When the Thermostat diagnostic runs, the integrated error is compared to a calibrated threshold and a pass or fail is then determined.  Many things can cause the code to set, but they all have one thing in common, Engine Temperature.  Any electric or mechanical component that can affect engine temperature readings will cause the code to set in the computer, even a faulty computer.

The image above is from the Dodge Magnum.  The black rubber body around the center disc failed.  (new on left vs old on right)  The rubber is in place to make a tight seal around the outer body.  This rubber sealing ring keeps coolant from flowing untill the engine reaches the correct temperature.  If coolant flows too early, the code will set.

The engine computer is looking at the coolant temperature to adjust timing and fuel delivery for best economy.  A faulty Thermostat can cause reduced fuel economy, poor heater operation and hard shifting from cars with automatic transmissions.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013