My tires are worn out? Why are they worn out?

I just replaced my tires last month. Well, sort of.

The client in question, did replace the tires on this month, but it was 3 years ago this month. Time just zips by, and I have this happen to many clients, they lose track of when they last visited the shop. That is why we mail out reminders to clients, so they come in for service regularly.

I see 4 to 5 cars a week that need tires. So why do drivers wait till the tire fails? Why wait till you are on the side of the road.

I blame it on an old school idea, the myth is that Abraham Lincoln’s head is a good judge of tread depth. In the last couple years I have seen many automotive articles on tire wear and when it’s time to replace the worn out rubber.

Penny vs Quarter for checking tire depth
Penny @ 2/32″ of an inch vs a Quarter @ 4/32″ of an inch.

When you use a penny to judge the tread depth, you are waiting too long to replace your tires. Waiting till your tires are at 2/32″ of an inch to replace them puts you at risk of hydroplaning in wet conditions.

Hydroplaning; “Verb”  To slide uncontrollably on the wet surface of a road : a motorist whose car hydroplaned and crashed into a tree.

Many tires may still have tread in the center, but may be worn at the edge, or worse. Your tires could be age cracked, or have cuts on the side wall from hitting curbs.   You must look at the condition of the entire tire, not just the thread thickness.

I know, I live in Arizona. It never rains in Arizona, right? Well the fact is, yes, it does rain in Arizona just not very often. But when it does rain, all the oil in the road rises to the top of the wet surface. That makes the road very slick. Any tire at 2/32″ of an inch will slip, slide and lose traction very easy in that type of wet condition.

So I like to use a Quarter, I keep one in my pocket to show clients how important thickness is when the road is wet. A Quarter will give you 4/32″ or 1/8 th of an inch of tread thickness. I use 4/32″ of an inch as a guideline for tire wear. Many tests have shown that tires worn to 4/32″ of an inch will still grip the wet road and bring your car to a safe stop.

The video below is showing a tire that is worn too much, it needs replacement now. If you look at the center of the tire you can see the tread is still thick enough that it could give the owner the idea the tire is still good. The client did not think the tread was that bad till I showed him up close how cracked and worn the tire was. In fact all 4 tires looked just like the one in the video clip. He only came in to get the fluids checked and the tires aired up because he was going on a trip in the morning.

So as your tire wears down below 4/32″ it will start to lose traction when the road is wet. Tests on tires looking at tire wear vs wet traction showed that at 3/32″ of an inch the wet stopping distances starts to increase by 15 to 50%.

At 2/32″ of an inch almost all the tires tested showed the cars using over double the amount of distance to stop. That is almost 100% more stopping distance needed when the road is wet. Replacing your tires at 4/32″ is a good idea. Think safety first.

By the way the client was very happy we found this before he had a break down. With 4 new tire an oil change and new wiper blades he was ready for his trip.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

DTC P0300 Random Engine Miss Fire Condition

DTC P0300 is a Random Engine Miss Fire Condition

An engine miss fire feels like a bumping sensation. Most of the time, this is noticed by the driver when accelerating. A miss fire condition may cause the Check Engine Light to turn on or start flashing at you.

Carbon tracking on a spark plug

This is a spark plug with carbon tracking. The dark black lines running left to right in the center of the image is a carbon trail caused by a faulty spark plug wire. This type of condition will cause a single cylinder miss fire.

If an engine miss fire condition is causing poor tail pipe emissions, the check engine light will start to flash on and off.

When you see the check engine light flashing at you, do not continue to drive the car. Get it in for repairs right away. The catalytic converter maybe damaged if you continue to drive the car with the check engine light flashing.

catalytic converter failure core melted

A Catalytic Converter damaged by a miss fire condition. A miss fire condition will melt down a converter very quickly.

A catalytic converter is not chump change. On a Nissan Pathfinder, I just replaced both front catalytic converters on the Nissan and it was related to a miss fire condition. It was over $1,400.00 just for the dealer cats.

Worn spark plugs, causing engine code P0300

This set of worn spark plugs was causing a DTC P0300 on a Ford 4.2 V6. The plugs are 8 years old with 102,000 miles of use. The engine needed more parts than just spark plugs. This set of plugs also shows oil build up, the engine was due for a valve job on top of all the other needs.

If the check engine light is flashing, get it in for repairs!

OBD2 cars today can store a code that will direct the mechanic to look at a specific area.

A good example of this is when you have a DTC P0302 miss fire detected on cylinder #2, you have a place to look (cylinder #2 has a miss fire). You just have to look at things that would affect cylinder #2.

Oil fouled spark plug

Oil fouled spark plug, this plug was causing a single cylinder miss fire. (DTC P0304)

On a DTC P0300, this is a random miss fire condition that could be caused by anything. Anything that changes the air/fuel mixture to all of the cylinders in the engine at the same time.

A dirty MAF sensor can cause this type of change to all the cylinders.

MAF: Mass Air Flow Sensor, is a sensor that takes reading of the incoming air into the engine and sends a signal to the computer. The signal is used to make fuel system, cam timing and ignition timing adjustments.

The driver may not feel the engine miss fire with a DTC P0300, but the driver should see the check engine light turn on. Other things the driver may notice. The engine may feel like it is not responding crisply or the driver may notice that the fuel economy has been poor.

A couple other things that can cause a DTC P0300. Poor engine compression or an engine that is out of time due to a faulty timing belt or timing chain. A large centrally located vacuüm leak or a restricted exhaust system.

——————————————————————————————–

DTC P0300 Defined: Random Cylinder Miss Fire, this condition could be caused by any parts attached to the engine or parts inside the engine. You have to look for any condition that will change the air/fuel mixture, spark or compression to all the cylinders at the same time.

DTC P0301 Defined: Miss Fire on cylinder #1 or any cylinder that the code lists. (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304) The last number in the DTC is pointing to the cylinder that set the code.

 

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Oil Change Challenge

I do not have enough money to make that repair.

Really, you do not have enough money to maintain your car? I run into this statement often. This time it was a single mom with two little ones. She said, she barely had enough money for the oil change, much less any repairs.

The repair needed was a cooling system hose @ $63.00 parts and labor. I could not let a good car over heat and turn into a bigger issue. If the engine overheated, I knew she would have no money to fix that. So I gifted the repair to the client.

Then I issued a challenge to the client. I handed her a two-quart empty juice jug, it was clean…

I asked her to take any spare change she gets and drop it into the jug. I also told her not to cheat the jug. Leave the change in the jug till the next oil change. Then bring the jug to us and our morning guy would run the jug over to the Coin Star Machine during her next visit for repairs.

Well, the client came in and she was shocked when the jug was counted. She had enough money for the oil change and two other maintenance needs.

Spare change can go along way if you do not cheat the jug.

It does not take much money to maintain a car. maintenance is on going and if you ignore it, the car will break down. The national average for a basic economy car care is $.08 per mile driven. This is does not include European cars, big trucks, suv’s, 4×4’s and sports cars.

Edmunds has a great maintenance calculator that can help you find out your cars basic costs for maintenance.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

When Rats Attack

Repairs related to Rats or field Mice.

I have many cars come in every year with rat or field mice damage. The little critters chew up wires and hoses, damaging your car or worse causing a health hazard by getting into the A/C system. If you have a car that sits for the season, the little critters can cause hundreds of dollars of damage in just a couple of weeks.

On many cars, critters can get up into the small spaces and start building nests. The video above is showcasing what I did to stop field mouse from nesting in a Lexus A/C system air intake passage. The client had replaced the cabin air filter 6 times in 4 months. I had to make a repair inside the A/C case related to the damage so this is what I did to keep the critter out of the inlet passage.

Rats and field mice can damage a wire harness in hours. One way to combat them is to use an ultra sonic pest repel unit, if your car is parked for storage this works the best. Local hardware stores have them and you can find them on Amazon. You have to plug them into a 110 volt power outlet, but if you can use this product, it is effective.

Wire and hose repairs we do at the shop, are wrapped up with rat tape. Rat tape has a spicy kick to it. It has a hot pepper additive in the tape that makes the rat think twice about chewing on it. Rat tape works about 90% of the time.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

 

Engine Ping or Rattle

Pre-Ignition or Ping, it’s a rattle sound.

Summer time is here. Summer heat will place extra load on your engine. During the hot summer months it is advised to use top-tier gasoline. (91 octane) The engine systems in modern cars today do a great job to control timing, but sometimes it will still ping. Top tier gasoline most of the time will quiet the ping or rattle sound.

The engine knock sensor pictured above was causing a nasty ping on a Nissan Pathfinder. The sensor is located under the intake manifold, not easy to change. The one on the left is the new knock sensor. The sensor on the right was still working, but not correctly due to the broken outer plastic shell.

If you hear the ping sound, do not ignore it. Something could be wrong. An engine will also ping if it is over heating. If your car is 3 years old or older, inspecting your cooling system regularly is very important. Stop in at the shop if you have a ping or rattle condition. A prolonged ping condition can damage internal engine parts.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

 

DTC P0102 (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low

DTC P0102 Mass Air Flow Circuit Low Frequency

When a DTC is stored in the PCM, (Power-train Control Module) you would figure that the stored code would point directly to the fault or the engine would run poorly.

Some codes will be very specific to a sensor or fault condition.

DTC P0102 is a simple code with a very specific fault condition. The MAF signal is low during engine operation. The normal idle frequency of a good GM MAF is around 2100 to 2500 hertz.

The code will most commonly set anytime the hertz signal drops below 1200 hertz during engine operation.

This condition is easy to check with a lab scope or a OE level scan tool. I do not recommend to DIY this type of intermittent fault unless you have the correct tools. It is easy to cause more harm than good or replace parts that are still good.

If the condition is intermittent it could take time to duplicate the fault. Many parts houses will sell you a MAF sensor as the most common part replaced. When the condition is intermittent you have to duplicate the condition to I.D. the real cause. The MAF sensors can go bad, but MAF sensors are not the most common failure part.

Do not buy a re-manufactured MAF, ever!

A man-made or age related failure is more common with an intermittent fault. I see many damaged electrical connectors, faulty Idle Air Control Valve, poor handling of the wire harness during service work, damage to the MAF sensor, poor quality accident repairs, faulty chassis grounds or age related circuit failures may cause an intermittent conditions.

This dirty throttle chamber was causing the clients issue. The build up was cutting off the air and causing the engine to dip so low in RPM that it would go into a stall when coming to a hard stop.

One week earlyer I had a Buick Park Ave that had the same code, but it had a bad MAF sensor. Testing is the best way to know what is faulty. If you have a check engine light on. Stop in to the shop and let us take a look.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

 

Click, Click, Click

It’s the sound no one want’s to hear.

Click, click, click, this sound could be caused by a faulty starter, a poor cable connection at the starter or battery, or it could be a worn out battery. It could be related to anything in the starting system.

The most common reason is a faulty battery. (about 75% of the time it is just a faulty battery) In Arizona I see most batteries last about 18 months. (1.5 years) The heat is a big killer of batteries. I test every battery in every car I look at, even if it is in for a small repair.

A battery does not normally fail suddenly, but can. The battery will show weakness many months before full failure. Yes, it may start the engine just fine, but the cells inside the battery may have a reduced capacity.

The best way to test for battery health is to place a fixed load on the battery and watch the voltage drop over a preset time. This places a dynamic load on the cells. This is an old school type of test.

The next best way is to use a capacity tester. This type of test checks the internal cell resistance. If the cells are weak, the tester will show (percentage remaining) or a (replace now) depending on how weak the cells are.

Do not wait till you hear click, click click to take action, stop in today so we can test your battery. We are always happy to see new clients and our regular clients know we take care of everything under the hood. Call us today to schedule an appointment.

At Tony’s Service Center we check your battery at every visit. If it is having any issues, you will know before it fails.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Car hopping is on the rise.

Cars today have anti theft systems to keep the car from driving away.

The petty thief today does not want your car, they just want to swipe what ever you have loose in your car.

Car hopping is on the rise in many areas.

Car hopping is when the thief scouts for unlocked cars and just grabs what ever you have sitting out. It is a snatch and run. At night it is even easier for them to get away with your valuables. Upscale neighborhoods and shopping malls are the prime areas they strike. The worst part is the thief is dressing the part to fit into the surroundings. They are dressing nice to blend in.

Take the time to place your valuables out of sight, in the trunk or glove box. Remember to lock your car. Any loose change in easy view, may make you a prime target. It only takes a moment to become a victim. It also only takes a moment to put the stuff out of sight.

Take the time, be safe and do not become a victim.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Tune Up – Phoenix 85016

What is a Tune Up?

By todays standards, a tune up is not like a tune up in the good old days. You may remember back to a time when dad or grandpa worked on the family car in the drive way. With many trips to the auto parts store and two six packs of liquid helper the car would run again.

On a modern O.B.D. 2 car, a tune up it is very different from pre 1999 cars.

O.B.D. 2 started back in 1995, but only on some cars and light trucks. By 1999 every car and light truck on the road had O.B.D. 2 computers running the engine and transmission systems. Many government mandates reshaped how engines and transmission systems are managed. Fuel economy and emissions standards became tighter. So car makers had to make changes.

From 1980 to 1999 many american cars used O.B.D. 1 computers. The O.B.D. 1 computer was slow and prone to odd issues. Each car maker had its own system with its own set of codes and short comings.

As fast as home computers changed, the computers used in cars changed, becoming faster and more capable. Some manufactures used old school ways with new electronics and it made a mess of everything under the hood. So many hoses, wires, valves and sensors it just made your head spin.

Imports had electronic systems back in to the 70’s, but no two makes of car ran the same style of system and they changed every 2 to 3 years. Many import cars used parts that did the same things that O.B.D. 1 parts did, but no one used a uniform standard. It was a big mess until O.B.D. 2.

Back in the old days of points, plugs and wires.

Prior to electronic ignition systems, every engine used a set of points to trigger the ignition system. The points system was a mechanical on off switch for the ignition system. Every 6 months or so the parts would wear out and need replacement or a tune up. On the older cars you did not have a computer to give you a code. You had to find the fault by doing tests on all the parts that ran the engine.

Repairing the older cars required the mechanic to hook up a big engine scope to the engine. Getting good data from the engine during its operation was critical to a fast diagnosis. This was the heart of no code driveability. You had to know how every part worked and how wear effected the way the engine ran or how the transmission would respond. I do not miss the old cars, but I still have some vintage rides stop in for service.

Todays version of a tune up may consist of pulling codes and replacing some broken parts, but for the most part a modern car has nothing to tune up. A computer running a program sets the idle speed and timing to maximise fuel economy and engine performance, its pre-set, nothing to adjust. Service intervals are longer and wearing parts like spark plugs last longer.  The Distributer, distributer cap, rotor, ignition wires and coil has been replaced with an ignition coil on plug ignition systems. Todays engine bay looks simple in comparison to a 80’s car. So what is a tune up? It’s about replacing the worn parts and making the car happy.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013

Chevy Truck Repairs, My engine runs rough.

1997 Chevrolet truck with a 4.3 engine runs rough.

The owner has maintained the truck very well, but with 300,000+ miles on the clock you would think it would be all worn out, but it’s not. This is why maintenance is critical to the long life of your car or truck. This truck looks and drives great because the owner loves his ride. The rough running condition was not setting any codes.

(This was a No Code, Driveablity Condition) 

It was not related to the ignition system or engine compression. It was caused by a faulty fuel pressure regulator on the fuel injection unit. The only way to spot an issue like this is to know fuel delivery basics.

The failure was not computer related.

Some engine parts go bad slowly over time. The client did not know that anything was wrong. The client only said it felt rough at an idle and to check it out. This little monster below is the fuel injection unit from under the intake manifold. It is hidden from sight. So when it has a leak, you do not smell it or see it, but your fuel economy will drop when it is going bad.

The client may have noticed that the engine was using more fuel, but he does not check the fuel mileage regularly. The easy way to check fuel usage is to zero out your trip meter when you fill up the gas tank. Then at the next fill up, divide the miles traveled by the fuel used to re-fill the tank. Presto, you just found out what your fuel MPG is. Now, do this at every fill up and if you notice your mileage drop over 20% suddenly, you may need repairs or lighter feet.

It’s all good under the hood. Anthony Xavier ASE Master Technician

copyright: All rights reserved @ HeyAnthonyAZ.com 2013